Something happens on the Lake Ontario tributaries sometime during the month of December. It's hard to pinpoint exactly, but there is an anomaly that occurs during that month that draws a line of demarcation between the "easy" fall steelhead fishing and the "difficult" winter steelhead fishing. In most years this change occurs around Christmas, and it's arrival is mirrored by a dramatic decrease in angler pressure. Perhaps it's a blend of many factors that make other winter hobbies more attractive (read "easier"), or perhaps it's simply that the fish do indeed become more difficult to catch. Whatever the reason, many anglers vacate the rivers in pursuit of other games leaving the fish for the true die-hard winter steelheaders. That is fine by me, but for those of you who really want to be a consistently successful winter steelhead angler this article may help. I will try to explain a bit about the changes that occur to the fish and the habitat in which they live, for this is where the hinge between success and failure often exists. Followed by that I will talk a bit about fly pattern selection and presentation. I also encourage you to read my previous article on dressing for the cold as it will help you to maximize your enjoyment while winter fishing.

The Winter River

It is very important to understand the physical and chemical changes that occur to a river as winter progresses. Rivers are dynamic ecosystems, ever-changing to reflect conditions. In order to fish them effectively, an angler must first realize what impact the dropping temps, changing sun angles, and variable flows have on the river itself.

First, a discussion on basic hydraulics is in order. Rivers flow because there is gradient. The river channel is the path of least resistance for the flow of water to follow on it's way to its destination, in this case Lake Ontario. Along it's course, the flow of water encounters many obstructions in many shapes and sizes. Each obstruction acts to impede the flow of water, forcing it to find an easier path. In front of, and behind each obstruction is created a soft cushion of flow as the main channel is diverted. The size of the obstruction dictates the size of these cushions. Furthermore, as the current breaks around these obstructions, forming the cushions, there will be occasions where the current and cushion meet. We call these seams or velocity breaks.

Now, it is rather easy to visualize a boulder, with a typical v-current trailing behind it showing-off two nice seams as the current runs to both sides forming a pocket of slower water behind it. But obstructions can be formed by many other obstacles like islands, logs, and bends. Usually these types of current breaks are easily detected at different flows, especially if they are large or if the water is shallow.

Where many anglers run into problems is where the water is deeper and obstacles are less visible, or where the obstacle itself is subtle. This probe lm is then compounded in the winter because these are precisely the areas where winter steelhead tend to congregate.

All in-water obstructions create friction, slowing the flow of water. The more irregular the stream bottom, the higher the friction. This results in a layer of slower water at the bottom, with the surface layers moving faster overhead. Obviously other factors must be considered. The water depth, flow rate, and channel width will all factor into the equation. But, if they were all constant, the cushion of slower water would be large over a heavily cobbled bottom and almost nonexistent over exposed bedrock. Likewise, slots, or depressions in the stream channel, will magnify the cushion.

As winter presses-on and the water temperature drops, the water becomes more dense. This increase in density will increase the felt effect of the flow of water. It's significance may be argued, but I feel it is worthy of consideration. Compared to equivalent summer or fall flows, I really feel that it is more difficult to wade winter water, and it requires more weight to achieve depth during the winter simply because the colder water is more dense. Therefore, logic tells me that this density increase effects the fish in a similar way.

Another characteristic of cold water is that it can hold more dissolved oxygen. Oxygen gets dissolved into water through aeration, where the air is mixed with water. In rivers this occurs primarily in waterfalls, riffles, and rapids although a small amount will occur as the current flows along. When the water is warmer, it cannot hold as much oxygen. Compounding that may be lower flows which reduce aeration and an increased demand by various aquatic organisms which consume oxygen. Such is not the case in a typical winter as long as the water remains unfrozen. Aeration is maximized at the robust winter flows and the cold water holds more oxygen and for longer periods of time since it's demand is lessened. This means that areas low in oxygen in the fall may have a great deal higher level of oxygen in the winter. From a fishes perspective, this is great because they can hold in slacker water yet be exposed to adequate oxygen--something not always possible in warmer water. You see, we find early season steelhead in fast water not because that's the water that they prefer, but because that's the water that holds what they need large amounts of--food and oxygen. However in winter that pattern reverses; as the fish demand less food (lower metabolism) and the water holds more oxygen the slower, deeper water becomes more attractive. The trend reverses yet again in the spring and summer.

So, on the surface rivers appear quite similar as the season change. But when you look closer you begin to see that some fairly significant changes occur. These changes are noted by the successful angler and are applied to what the angler knows about the fish.

The Winter Steelhead

Just as the rivers reflect the changing seasons, so do the fish.

As we learned in high-school, fish are cold-blooded. This means they lack the ability to regulate their body's core temperatures and instead operate at the ambient temperature. For a river steelhead in the dead of winter this often means just above 32-degrees. As the temperatures drop so do the metabolisms of the steelhead. And as we all know, when your metabolism slows, so does your energy level as well as your need for nutritional intake. Steelhead are no different. Yes, they will still eat; just not very much, very often, for very long--nor will they move very far to get it. Thus is the crux of your dilemma as a winter angler.

As I hope you can begin to see, the lethargic steelhead will look to take advantage of the boost in oxygen to allow him to respire in the gentle cushions provided by deeper, slower water; larger obstructions; slots; and bottom structure. In the summer and fall a fish may nose up into the head of a riffle for both it rich biomass and abundant oxygen required to feed it's racing metabolism; but during the winter the same fish is able to rest comfortably out of the heavy flows and sustain it's diminished metabolism with infrequent small, easy meals.

In my opinion the threshold temperature is between 42 and 45-degrees. Below that I think of steelhead to be in "winter mode" and above that I think of them to be more active. This will effect how I fish for them, and to a larger degree where I look for them.

Since this article is focusing on winter steelhead, we will stick to that environment. The fish are slow, and most of them are seeking velocity breaks where they can sit out of the main current. Depth becomes important for two reasons: first, deeper channels act to reduce the current speed, and second, depth equates to cover. For the angler this knowledge should allow you to eliminate a great deal of water. I teach my clients to look for dark water when winter fishing because that usually translates to deep structure. Because these dark areas indicate deeper slots they also indicate an overhead velocity break. Find these areas and you should find fish.

You will also find fish around more prominent structure as long as there is enough water depth to make them feel secure. Often a single large rock or rock hump will act as a magnet for pods of fish in an otherwise barren and featureless pool or run. Likewise, plunges or bedrock shelves will offer the same attraction. Learn these areas when the water is low and you can bank on reliable winter steelhead action.

The Winter Patterns

I operate under the general theory that fresher fish are more gullible. This works out great for the guide who already ties more flies per year than any human should because gullible fish can be caught on easy-to-tie "guide flies." I'm in love with flies that I can tie in under a minute using one or two materials; I love them even more when they catch fish.

On a more serious note, it's critical that you are not scared to fish your flies. By that I mean that you are not afraid to lose them. Many folks invest a good deal of time tying photo-perfect, intricate flies so they get queasy at the thought of hanging them on a rock or tree. That bias prevents you from really fishing to the fish. On difficult days, often its the tough cast under a tree limb or working the water along a rock hump that gets you your fish. If you are timid about casting to structure and losing flies, then your success will flounder (hee-hee).

So, without fail I target the freshest fish I can find. Over the years I have developed a game plan of sorts when I select patterns to fish with. Obviously egg patterns round-out the bulk of what I fish with. Given the oddball colors that seem to be most effective, I have a difficult time believing the fish take them thinking they are eggs. But you know what? I don't care if they think they are grasshoppers! What matters is that they take them.

The first pattern I tie on is usually the one that was most effective for me the previous day. If it does not work I will change color, then size. If the pattern fails in a myriad of colors and sizes then I change patterns. I'm not convinced that the actual pattern matters all that much, but I am convinced that your boxes should contain varieties of patterns that you have confidence in! While I may bang away at them with a glo-bug, you may have just as much fun with a sucker spawn. But if you despise glo-bugs and have no faith in them I'm betting you could not mirror my success. There is an intangible when it comes to fly patterns; you're always going to do better with flies that you have confidence in. Don't give the fish that much credit, it's unlikely that every steelhead in the river will only eat a #12 four-loop semi-mauve sucker spawn tied with domestic angora yarn. What's likely is that the guy slobber knocking the fish with that pattern really likes it and really fishes it well. At best, the size and color of the fly is the ticket.

When the fishing gets really tough and the fish appear to have tired of seeing egg pattern and others from the endless list of steelhead patterns folks arrive with, it's time to get out of the box. I have spent years developing patterns, or developing confidence in patterns, that get used for tough conditions. These will tend to be more subdued and imitative of living creatures, yet contain some proven steelhead triggers like bits of color or flash. Without giving away all my secrets, I will encourage you to get creative at the vise. Think of subtle action and materials that well imitate features of common food items. It's not necessary to imitate specific bugs, but it's wise to blend features. Often, showing some tough fish a new look makes for a banner day.

Stoneflies. Yep, it happens every spring on most rivers. The early black and brown stonefly nymphs sense the change and begin to migrate to shore en masse. Once to shore they will crawl onto exposed debris and hatch. It's the mass-migration that you need to be aware of because you can bet your bottom dollar that the fish will notice. Thousands of nutritious morsels drifting by as they try to get to the bank is enough to focus the attention of any steelhead. There will be days that stonefly nymphs work, and there will be days when stonefly nymphs will be the only things that work. Be prepared. When you select or tie your nymphs, flymphs, or wet flies (hint-hint) keep in mind that the naturals are longish, skinny, and active. I also try to tie mine so that they stand apart from the gazillion other specimens in the water. Nothing obtrusive, just some little tidbits to get the attention of the fish. Oh, and I also use patterns a size or two larger than the natural, just for effect.

Streamers. I trout fish for steelhead so streamers are not quite as important to me as they are to more traditional steelhead anglers. I teach what I know, and I know what I do. This is not to say that I do not fish streamers because I do, I just do not rely on them. This is especially true for winter fish that hug the bottom in very specific locations and are less apt to move to take a fly. For me, streamers are patterns for fishing above that 42-45-degree break line I spoke about earlier. For that reason, they are not a subject for this article.

The Winter Fishing

I think if one "rule" applies to winter steelhead fishing it is this:

• Make it as easy as possible for the fish to eat!

I don't care what fly you've tied on or how many fish you've located, if you make it hard for them to eat then your success will suffer. Steelhead are a lazy fish and they operate, like most animals, under the auspices of repetition. In their world, things move in certain ways and they get accustomed to those ways. For example, baitfish tend to school and dart when chased while eggs tumble. Nymphs will scurry or cling until they get knocked free where they will be at the mercy of the current until they can regain footing. This is natural in the steelhead's world. If you introduce something unnatural, you will surely get the fish's attention but that may not always be a good thing.

Remember that winter fish are lethargic, metabolisms slowed, requiring minimal food intake and expending minimal effort to obtain that food. Getting a fish to chase is unlikely. Asking a fish to go get an egg that is swinging away from it simply not going to be consistently effective. Your goal should be to present your fly to the fish in a way that both mimics nature and makes it easy for the fish to eat it. This is at the crux of what we call dead-drifting.

In my experienced opinion, the best way to present a dead-drifted fly to winter steelhead is with a floating line and a strike indicator. The floating line permits accurate casting, mending and a vertical presentation; the indicator serves to amplify the subtle takes of winter fish. I do not advocate using an indicator as a float to suspend the fly as a depth. While this can be effective at times, such rigging discounts the topography of the river bottom. In the steelhead's world eggs and nymphs do not drift in a straight line, so suspending a fly at a given depth may appear unnatural. Instead, I set the indicator well up on my leader so as to be sure it does not prevent my fly from obtaining depth. Only if constant hang-ups become an issue will I adjust it.

Your goal is to make the cast in such a way that the fly is shown to the fish in a manner like all the other food items drifting by. Here's where your approach and casting position is critical. If you alert the fish to your presence prior to making the cast you are wasting your time. If you select a casting position that makes a drag- free drift impossible, you are wasting your time. I advocate getting as close as possible, without giving yourself away, since shorter casts and less line make your presentation easier. Steelhead will tolerate you in somewhat close proximity as long as you are not visible, and lining the fish has never been an issue for me like it is with wild stream trout.

Try to break you target area into several small sections and work each one individually. I think you can spook fish just as easily with a poor presentation as you can any other way, so trying to force an extended drift and perhaps swinging your fly in front of the fish may not be a good idea. Pick a small target area and try to get a bit below it so that you are casting upstream. You want your casts to penetrate well above where you think the fish are so that once the fly is in their window it is behaving properly. This also gives you time to get control of your line and set the trigger for the take. The point is, you want your fly down, your line under control, and your hands in position to set the hook before your fly gets to where you think the fish are. Winter takes are often very subtle so you cannot afford to be anything but 100% focused on your drift. Understand that a true dead-drifted fly will NOT be under tension and there will be a certain degree of slack line in you drift at all times. Strike detection will be 100% visible, 0% tactile. This means that there will be a delay between the time the fish takes your fly and the time you see the pause or twitch in your indicator. The slower the drift, the longer the delay. For this reason it is imperative that you strike as soon as you register a change in your fly's drift.

Once you feel you have covered your target zone, move to the next. Ideally you want to always work upstream, but this is not always possible. If you are forced to fish down, then stay farther off the fish and introduce more slack into your line. The instant your fly line comes under tension, for any reason, you have introduced drag and alerted the fish, possibly spooking them. In addition, it is very difficult to mend fly line that is under tension without drastically moving your fly in the process. It's OK with streamers, but a no-no with nymphs. Think of it this way, if you are fishing with a line that is under tension, you have become a pivot point. The line will trace an arc and you will be the focus. If you maintain a slack line and mend in advance of any tension, then the line will maintain a path in-line with the current. Obviously this is a finite system, there will be a point where it's time to pick up and recast, usually a few degrees beyond your downstream shoulder.

Since we are looking to depend on casting accuracy and line management, we need to discuss leaders and tippets. I use tapered leaders that roughly conform to the 60/20/20 rule, where 60% of the leader is the butt, 20% the taper, and 20% the tippet. I favor tapered leaders because they maximize my casting accuracy and the transfer of energy is key to forming some of the casts I perform. If there is one drawback, the thicker butt will diminish the degree of depth you can get over a given amount of time. I do not feel in any way limited by this, and neither should you.

For the very deepest and slowest of pools, if I am going to spend some considerable time, I will use a right-angle leader. This is done by actually tying my indicator to a short , 2-foot, section of butt material. Then, I will tie a thinner (2X or 3X)dropper line around that heavy butt material using a clinch knot. This will form a right angle. The thin dropper will resist drag and get deeper quicker. To the dropper goes my tippet. The fallback here is twofold: the thing is a beast to cast and it ranks very low in terms of versatility. Since the indicator will indeed be supporting the fly, any minor change in depth will require and adjustment to the dropper length in order to maintain proximity with the bottom.

As I've mentioned in past articles, I never go lower than 4X tippet for these fish. My goal is to land them quickly and release them, overplaying them is not a form of entertainment for me. Truthfully, I do not feel that I miss the opportunity to fool many fish since I pay careful attention to all other aspects.

Consideration must also be given to weight. You'll need to be fishing near the bottom, but resist the temptation to chuck lead. Instead, you can use your casting and mending skills to permit depth, and a few small split shot will be all that is needed to overcome the faster top currents. By making it a point to cast well above the fish, you buy time to allow the fly to naturally seek the bottom. The advantage is that you will hang-up less and the minimal amount of weight will be less obtrusive to the fish and far easier to cast. I think weight clicking the bottom is noisy and alerts the fish so I do all I can to minimize it.

George Harvey developed the Tuck Cast many years ago in order to maximize his nymph-fishing with a slack line. The Tuck Cast is formed by laying out a firm power stroke above, not into, the water's surface and stopping the stroke by gripping the rod handle. What will happen is the fly will check and drop almost straight into the water, with the line and leader forming an upstream aerial mend. As you can envision, the fly will begin to sink immediately since it will not be impeded by the downstream progress of the fly line. Periodic mends will maintain the slack line. The severity of the angle of penetration depends on the depth of the water and the amount of distance you have to play with upstream of the fish. The deeper and swifter the water, the more severe of an angle of penetration, so the higher above the water the cast should be made. Obviously long runs permit longer upstream casts, while plunge pools may require more immediate depth. This skill alone will allow you to achieve depths with minimum weight beyond imagination. For this reason it is a skill I spend a great deal of time teaching my clients.

Conclusion

As you can see, by combining all the aspects I've detailed you end up with a program where each component has a purpose. Nothing I do or use is without reason. Every cast I make is made to a very specific area based on what I know about the fish and the river. The fly I use is decided by past success and present confidence and is propelled by a cast and rig that is most appropriate for the water, and made from the best location.

I never feel compelled to do what everyone else does, and this often leads to the downfall of many fish that come to my net. If I want to be part of the 10% of anglers that catch 90% of the fish, I do not want to do what 90% of the anglers are doing!

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